Photo Exposure

 

Oceanside – Sunday, Oct. 22, 2006

Every year, mornings like this particular one remind me why fall is my favorite time of year in San Diego. A warm Santa Ana was blowing down from the hills across the sand and out over the water, sculpting a [...]

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Where Were You

Where Were You

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La Jolla Cove

This shot was taken was during a stretch of steady, macking surf during the El Niño winter of 1997-98. Spots like Blacks and La Jolla Cove had some epic sessions leading up to the day this was shot, February 16, [...]

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Fire Threat

On a day when the fires hadn’t yet become a threat and most Southern California surfers jockeyed for position on their favorite peak, a select number of surfers enjoyed the best conditions we’d seen in months in relative solitude, picking [...]

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Closeout

The mornings suddenly have a crispy chill and it takes a little more adrenaline to hop out of bed than it did a month or two ago. I grab a hoody, fill up a mug and bitterly pick up the [...]

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Torrey Pines

December 12th, 2006 Torrey Pines. This image was captured during the first real swell of the winter. After an unremarkable summer and fall, the line-ups were packed. It’s usually a challenge to get any work done on this type of [...]

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Average Joe Doco

While laid up with an injury for a few weeks, I watched every surf vid known to man. I watched high-speed, punk rock slashing from the 90s. I watched slow mo, acid-induced, Bali barrels from the 70s. I watched longboarding, [...]

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The Wedge

                Whether we like it or not, technology has influenced every sector of our sport. Unless you are a true soul surfer and wear only the oldest canvas boardies, ride the most archaic of boards, walk or [...]

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