19. The Malloy Brothers, California’s First Family of Surfing
California’s surfing family, the Malloys, have been all over the surfing spectrum. Competition heathens, career film makers, high amplitude video segments, big wave hell-men, cold water voyagers, eco-minded spokesmen, are all apt description of the brothers Malloy. In short: Chris, [...]
Ranch Recollections
When I was a young kid, my parents would visit with a family who owned a large, coastal, working cattle ranch which was north of Santa Barbara. It was called the Hollister Ranch. I recall riding the dirt roads, shooting [...]
Humble Pie served up Cold
Up north of Point Conception, past where So -Cal ends and Central California begins, surfing is a different world. Chillier, more rugged and challenging, it toughens you up and teaches you lessons you will never learn at Malibu, Huntington or [...]