Finding That Middle Ground

Surfers don’t need a calendar to tell them when fall is setting in. The occasional southern hemisphere mixed with the north pacific systems starting to rev up are signs that Mother Nature is transitioning seasons.
Fall is a season of unknowns for surfers. Last fall I remember loading three different styles of wetsuits and three different boards into my car so I could surf before work. This time of year, changing boards to find the right fit for the day’s conditions is a constant, but what is the perfect shape for the fall season?
“All-around” is the phrase that permeates from discussions on what type of board is best for the fall. Although the term all-around means something different for everyone, having a single board that will perform well in the variety of conditions you’re bound to face in the fall is a challenge.
Michael Walter, shaper from UM Designs, suggests ditch the wider nose prevalent in summer fish-like shapes. “As the waves get more hollow, definitely get a more pulled in nose. Closer to a regular shortboard,” Walter said.
Summer shapes are defined by their flat rocker to assist flowing through the fat, weak sections but swells with more juice will allow more rocker without a noticeable loss in speed. “Visit the basic points of the board and balance them out. Increase the rocker from your summer board but in comparison to your winter board try to keep it level,” Marcio Zouvi, from Sharp Eye Surfboards, said.
When trying to find a shape that will perform well in a variety of conditions, the most important variable is the tail. Keeping a wider tail will give you enough float but allow you decrease the overall thickness of the board. A good ratio of tail-width and board thickness is probably a little less wide than your summer board, but a little thicker than your winter stick.  
The fall season allows surfers to be scientists. For the next few months, the ocean and her playful swells are prime for experimenting. Take the time to make some field assessments on your seasonal boards, and make the necessary adjustments so your next board is an all-around classic.


 “Stick with the basics. A squash tail but not radical in the rocker. A fall board has to have drive to compensate for those smaller days.” - Marcio Zouvi, Sharp Eye Surfboards

“A 14-inch squash tail with a decent rocker, medium concave and pulled in nose, just like our “Millionaire” Model. Fall is when we start to get more hollow waves.  – Michael Walter, UM Designs

“The Flyer II has same bottom as the Flyer but we added the swallowtail and took away the volume. Swallowtail relives tail pressure and sits down in the water tighter. There is a lot of stability but it has the loose skimmy feel.” – AL Merrick, Channel Islands Surfboards