Basics to getting the right gun design
General characteristics of big-wave guns include a longer length and increased thickness, but with a relatively narrow width. Guns range in length of 7’ to 12’ and 2 _” to 3 _” in thickness respectively.
Location, Location, Location
What type of big wave spot you choose to ride is the biggest factor to weigh when choosing the type of gun to add to your quiver. And yes, each type of wave deserves a certain type of board. You may survive with one big-wave board, but on the rare days that big and good waves hit our coast, you don’t want to waste it struggling with the wrong equipment.
Before you choose what type of big wave board to go with, imagine where you would ride it if the surf really does get triple overhead. Are you going to make a trip to Todos? Or does Sunset Cliffs or Swami’s seem more reasonable to you? There are three basic designs to big-wave boards.
The Big Dropper (True Gun)
Survival is the best word to describe the “true gun” where making the drop is the ultimate goal. Length and thickness are what you want to focus on with the rhino-chaser and this type of board best suits those who want to paddle in to large peaks, like Todos, La Jolla Cove, or Mavericks. These boards have to be extremely stable and fast on the straight-away. Flat bottom or single-concaves will help with the speed and a nice sharp pintail will help with stability.
Long and Facy (Semi-Gun)
Performance takes the front seat with the semi-guns. This type of big-wave board is designed for point breaks that have long waves and flatter faces when there is big surf. Examples for this type of wave would be Sunset Cliffs or Swamis. It is important to design this board with enough thickness to paddle in to the wave but also sensitive to the width and rail design to accommodate maneuverability on an open face.
“Not too much” is the key phrase about the semi-gun because too much length or thickness can hinder the surfer’s ability to make a decent turn and not enough will prevent you from catching the wave or making the drop. Consider a thumb-pin or rounded-pin style of tail for this board.
The Slabber (Pipe Board)
A “Pipe” board has become the signature for ridding big-waves with one thing in mind. Big barrels. They are considered guns because of the size required to catch the monsters that come through. Consider this design if you surf spots like Big Rock or other unnamed slabs where pulling in is the only goal. This shape is a hybrid of the true gun and the semi-gun. It has the smaller length and thickness of the semi-gun but maintains the narrowness and pointy tail of the true gun.
Final Thoughts
Before paddling out into a potentially like threatening situation please be real about your abilities in larger surf. Just because you own a big-wave board does not mean you are ready. Physical and mental training are required long before anybody drops in at Todos. As a basic introduction to big-wave boards this information is the first, and only a small piece of an overall package that is necessary to be a big wave surfer.
Consult an experienced shaper who can talk to you, surf with you, and design what you need given your surfing abilities. Visit www.surfshot.com to find the right shaper for you.
Want to comment?