The Ocean Is A Healing Force

The Eighth Annual UCSD Cancer Center & Luau Inspires Surfers Once again
By Doug Grimm

La Jolla, California

The Eighth Annual UCSD Cancer Center Luau and Longboard Invitational successfully demonstrated how surfers care. This amazing event is a San Diego surfer's dream come true. The opportunity to surf the best waves the contest has ever been held in, and the chance to meet surfing legends like Robert August, Linda Bensen, and Corky Carrol helped to make this years contest an incredibly memorable event. The annual fund raiser for the UCSD Cancer Center is evidence that surfers will come together to help our community.

The day opened with the Longoard Invitational. The competition opened at 7:00 am and was held on the south side of the Scripps Institution of Oceanography Pier. Many of San Diego's noteworthy companies annually sponsor and enter the event; competing for the 10-foot Takayama balsa and redwood perpetual Winners board. The participants are teamed with legendary figures from surfing's history. Imagine being a teammate to Mickey Munoz or Skip Frye for the day, and you can understand why these lucky surfers spend the next three days stoked to the hilt. The good natured competition closed with a legends expression session, where the crowd was delighted by amazing rides from these incredible surfers. No one was more amazing during this session than Rabbit Kekai. At 75 years of age, Rabbit still charges waves with the enthusiasm of a grommet.

Enjoying the surf was not the only reason the legends volunteer their time for this event. "Surfers need to start doing things for others and themselves," says Chuck Hasley, veteran California surfing pioneer and founder of the Windansea surf club. This is the prevailing view among all in attendance. Linda Bensen, who at age 15 was the first women to surf Wiamea bay in 1959, feels that this event shows the true nature of surfers "These are the surfers of a legendary era. We were kind of like beatniks, and people judged us without really knowing us. This event, sort of like an academy awards for the early surfers, shows that surfers really do care about the community."

To some of the legends the event carries a far more personal meaning. Jericho Poppler, winner of the first women's world pro tour in 1976, is a 15 year cancer survivor. "Live here in the now and be positive." She told me while holding her young child in her arms. "I was told to have no more children...this is my fifth." Having also lost her best friend, Rell Sunn, to cancer; Jericho donates her energy and efforts to this event with additional honor and pride.

The spirit of Rell Sunn, known to the surfing world as the Queen of Makaha, continues to be a motivating force to the Luau and Longboard Invitational. Meandering through the crowd I heard the legends praising her as the most selfless person to ever carry a surfboard. Her memory is honored by awarding the Rell Sunn Queen of Makaha award to the person or persons who most embody the qualities shared by Rell and the UCSD Cancer Center, "the battle against cancer combined with unselfishness, compassion and a true aloha spirit." Mark "Doc" Renneker, this years recipient, worked with Rell during her treatment, and is still inspired by her strength through such a difficult period. During his acceptance speech Doc declare that Rell won her battle against cancer. "The ocean is a healing force." Proclaimed Doc, as he related to the crowd how surfing allowed Rell's life to be rich and fulfilling throughout her battle with cancer.

Rell's aloha spirit was celebrated at the Luau in true island style. The legends make a point of answering questions, taking pictures and spreading the good will of surfing to everyone in attendance. "It's nice to have people be happy to meet me." Says a smiling Robert August as he adds his signature to one competitors board bag. John Peck, Wingnut, Donald Takayama, Ricky Grigg, and all of the other legends were easily accessible as well, making this a truly special day for everyone.

After meeting the legends, enjoying the delicious island cuisine and watching the Pride of Polynesia Dancers, everyone was truly instilled with Aloha spirit. Whether enjoying the great surf or learning how the surf community contributes to the important work of the UCSD Cancer Center, the Luau and Longboard Invitational is symbolic of the honest nature of surfing and the commitment surfers bring to the world around us.