Average Joe Doco

While laid up with an injury for a few weeks, I watched every surf vid known to man.
I watched high-speed, punk rock slashing from the 90s. I watched slow mo, acid-induced, Bali barrels from the 70s. I watched longboarding, tow boarding, even bodyboarding. I think I might have thrown a skim board vid in for a bit.
What stuck out most were the docos (Australian for documentaries) because they told a story. But one story wasn’t told. It was the story we surfers see everyday.
Documentaries on surfing tend to celebrate the heroes. And the heroes are psycho tow guys and little girls learning to surf on pink foam boards. What about the guy in Encinitas who cleared his schedule from now until 2025, so he can post up in the Seaside parking lot everyday and wait for it to get good (true story, I know the guy)? What about the carpenter in San Luis Obispo who won’t take a job east of the 101 because he doesn’t want to miss anymore of a promising October?
What the average Dick and Jane do to get some waves in California should be celebrated. Some call it laziness. Others call it commitment. I call it a good doco, mate.